At Elmina, the Sea Decides When Work Starts — Epoche A1
Wednesday, 5 March At the fish market in Elmina, in Ghana, the day does not start at a time; it starts when the boats come in. I sat on the harbour wall at half past three, in the dark. At four, the first boats came. Every boat has a name painted on the side, in big letters. Then the shouting: the auction. Women buy the fish in big pans, and carry them on their heads. By six, everything was gone — to the ice sellers, and to the women who smoke the fish over wood. Yesterday was Tuesday. No boat goes out on a Tuesday. The sea rests too.